Choose a lifestyle that neither burns your pockets nor the planet
The discounted prices you relished on black Friday sales may have cost the planet gasping for air and workers earning less than a thread on your sleeve. The new religion of online shopping has eased the retail shopping experience by bringing runways of fashion to the palm of your hand but at a social and environmental cost, not to be realized in the glittery malls and shopping plazas but in the mounting landfills and the hands of underaged and underpaid workers bleeding in to keep up with the pace of consumerism.
The $2.4 trillion global industry, employing approximately 300 million people across the value chain, is the third-largest polluting industry after fuel and agribased businesses. According to the UN Environment Programme (UNEP), the industry is the second-biggest consumer of water and is responsible for about 10% of global carbon emissions – more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined, and 2% to 8% of global greenhouse gas emissions. The industry generates 92 million tonnes of annual textile waste, consumes 215 trillion liters of water per year, ships back 85% of textiles to landfills, and demands grueling 75-hour work weeks to keep up with soaring demand. The 2023 Global Slavery Index reports that 50 million people live in modern slavery, with the garment industry being a significant contributor.
Having these numbers in mind, it’s also crucial to note that this industry also impacts ten UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). The United Nations Alliance for Sustainable Fashion seeks coordinated action in the fashion sector by UN bodies, policymakers, industry leaders, and everyone involved in the fashion ecosystem.
However, a watered-down commitment from national and international fashion brands to meet climate targets falls short of the accountability needed to address the true scale of environmental damage and unethical practices in the fashion supply chain. The industry needs to pace up with the accelerated technological change, pressing demands for sustainability and fair labour practices, and the shifting sands of consumer preferences.
Apparel Supply Chain
Fashion supply chain consists of the production of raw materials and the manufacturing of garments, accessories, and footwear, to their distribution, consumption, and disposal. In the wake of eco-conscious consumers’ priorities, the lack of CSR reporting on fashion is the first feature of this defining crisis. According to the campaign group’s recent What Fuels Fashion? Report 2024, nearly one quarter (24%) of the world’s largest fashion brands disclose nothing on decarbonisation, 86% of brands lack a public, time-bound, and measurable coal phase-out target, and 95% of major fashion brands do not publish a breakdown of the energy mix in their supply chains.
The demand of consumers and stakeholders for transparency is pushing brands, and thus their manufacturers, to scrutinize their supply chains to ensure fair wages, safe working conditions, and ethical sourcing of materials. Several companies are turning to isotopic testing, a scientific method to peer into the atomic makeup of materials in their products, to closely look out for any traces of environmental abuse or forced labour. End-to-end visibility not only enables tracking supply chains but also secures data transparency for consumers and regulatory bodies alike.
Environmental Impact
The list of environmental consequences within the fashion industry is staggering. This resource-intensive industry uses massive amounts of water, energy, and natural resources, driven by mass production and low-cost institutions. Dyeing and finishing, yarn preparation, and fibre production are among the largest contributors to environmental damage. The absurd quest of fast fashion brands “to take only 15 days for a garment to go from the design stage to being sold in stores” leaves behind an equally absurd trail of waste. The systemic animal cruelty and horrors of factory farming–for skins (leather), wool, down, cashmere, mohair, and fur–create a sense of exclusiveness, claiming the lives of billions of animals every year.
Many players in the fashion industry are turning to sustainable fashion stops, utilising upcycled materials, low-impact production, and investing in craftsmanship. Stella McCartney stood in the vanguard of successful sustainable luxury brands that produce products with recycled polyester, vegan leather, and organic cotton. Brands are routing close to consumers to reduce the travel distance and hence the carbon emissions. Slow fashion is rising as a reactive consumption model to reduce individual carbon footprints, and vegan fashion is replacing the traditional animal-derived fabrics.
Ethical labour practices
The social impacts equally run on par with the environmental impacts within the fashion industry. To lower the production cost, fast fashion brands have often been accused of employing child labour and offering lower than living wages in developing countries.
As a labour-intensive industry employing over 300 million people, fashion brands need to do more than pay lip service to address the exploitation and abuse of the human rights of millions of garment workers. Ethical labour practices include decent work employment, fair wages, occupational health and safety, diversity and equal opportunity, and grievance mechanisms throughout the supply chain.
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Ut elit tellus, luctus nec ullamcorper mattis, pulvinar dapibus leo.
H&M has striven hard in not only considering the well-being of the employees but also the customer’s health and safety through careful sourcing fabric they use. Fabindia is an Indian brand deeply rooted in promoting traditional Indian crafts and artisan communities, offering sustainable livelihoods to over 55,000 artisans and craftspeople.
Product lifecycle management
Influencers posting ‘haul’ videos to show off their purchases on social media and an unhealthy amount of ‘returns’ just to get extra luxury coupons on online shopping carts might be fueling the throwaway culture. These trends shed light on the need for product circulation and product longevity. Adopting a sustainable Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) thus becomes an imperative to manage a product’s entire lifecycle to produce sustainable clothes.
From initial concept and design to material selection, sourcing, production planning, and distribution and disposal.
According to McKinsey’s “The State of Fashion 2024” report, the luxury sector has outperformed again, suggesting leading brands’ sincere take on circularity and building better products that last longer. For instance, Ralph Lauren’s pilot “recirculation” programmes stand out as a leading contributor in eco-friendly initiatives to keep their products living on, from resale and repair to recycling and rental initiatives. Other key fashion brands are also relocating their production hubs closer to customers to promote textile-to-textile recycling and reduce emissions from transportation.
Improving consumer engagement
As consumers and shareholders alike have become more socially conscious, the demand for brands to act responsibly has only intensified. The COVID-19 pandemic has shifted consumers’ sentiments on environmental and social commitments and individual lifestyle preferences accordingly.
According to the 2015 Global CSR Study, 90% of consumers have pledged to boycott companies that engage in unethical practices. And as per Fashion Revolution’s consumer survey, 72% believe it’s important that fashion brands have ethical certifications. Consumers are now citing ‘newness’ as one of the last important attributes and are open to purchasing more durable fashion items. Their purchasing decisions indicate a significant shift in fashion cycle mindset. For fashion brands, this presents an ideal opportunity to scale circular business models tuned according to consumer preferences. Companies with subpar environmental and ethical practices risk tarnishing their brand image and even leading to mass boycotts and loss of profitability.
~Maanisa Das
